 |
| Apart from the rice paddies...does it remind you of Scotland? |
Northern Vietnam is a very popular spot for tourists. So having spent only an hour and a half in Hanoi we headed north to a small town called SaPa in the Vietnamese mountains. To get there we decided it would be fun to get the overnight sleeper train. However, we were in a hard sleeper which meant our cabin looked like a prison cell! After a night of not sleeping we arrived into Lao Cai before getting on another bus to SaPa. As it is in the mountains it was very cold and foggy and our hotel didn't have heating so we were wrapped up as if it was winter in Scotland! During brekkie we were blasted with gangnam style, we don't know how many of you have heard it but it is a song that is playing everywhere in Asia.
We had no time to catch up on sleep as we headed out on a trek to visit some of the villages. We walked with some of the local women and girls who were all in traditional clothing and carrying woven baskets on their backs. We felt like giants for the day as they were all under 5ft! There had had a lot of rain recently so the paths were very muddy and slippery and so the young girls would help us down the steep slopes. They never had any issues manoeuvring the way and they were only in flip flops whilst we were wearing boots and falling over! They were so helpful that we bought a bag from them when we stopped for lunch. Although as soon as the others realise you are buying something they swam and are very persistent. Most of their English is very basic- just enough to sell something- however our guide's English was very good even though she had never had a lesson. She had learnt it all from tourists which is why the young girls (most of them around 10 yrs old) come on the tours and ask you lots of questions.
 |
| Our helpers! |
 |
| Sarah discovered the plants they use to dye their clothing |
 |
| Presents from our helpers |
In the evening we went for a wander to the town square where we discovered what looked like Vietnam's Got Talent. We watched some Vietnamese singing and dancing before wandering around the stalls. We were both suckers for the young children out in the freezing cold selling traditional clothing and crafts, so we bought some things without even bothering to barter!
Vietnam's Got Talent
A popular attraction on a Sunday morning is Bac Ha Market- so we went shopping again! It is one of the biggest markets in Vietnam with everything from a live market to a food court to a barbers. One of the oddest parts is where they sell the buffalo which are still used to pay for a wife. Our guide said he paid 4 buffalo for his wife because she was very pretty. We spend a couple hours putting our bartering skills to good use whilst avoiding the section where they sell puppies for meat. We also thought it was a good idea to try some of the local snacks (especially since they looked like doughnuts!) However we quickly regretted this as it turned out to be some sort of rice cake that neither of us were particularly found of.
 |
| Buying and selling of buffalo |
 |
| Traditional dress of one village |
Later we travelled to a traditional village where we were allowed to look into their houses and see how they live. The houses were two story with 2 kitchens, one for feeding the people and the other for feeding the animals. The upper level is used for storing corn which meant the bedrooms were just areas of the livingroom cornered off with sheets. But of course they still had a tv!
 |
| Playground |
 |
| One of the kitchens |
Our journey back to Hanoi was definitely more comfortable than the way there. We had a nice 4 bed cabin with squishy beds. That is how train travel should be!
We thought it was time to go off the beaten tourist track so headed to Phong Nha Farmstay. We had pictured a couple of days relaxing in the National Park- this was not to be! Our first day was a trip into the National Park itself. Our guides Petra, German, and Benny, English, were really friendly and gave us loads of information about the history, geology and biology of the park. We drove around the park on Highway 20 which was used during the American war to transport goods between the north and south. We stopped along the way to look at the limestone cliffs with scars from where the bombs hit and caves where the Vietnamese hide during the bombings. We also looked at the only waterfall in the entire park. Another stop was to see a military bridge that lies above the original Ho Chi Minh trail and to this day it is kept in pristine condition as the Vietnamese fear the Chinese will invade.
Our second day involved hiring bikes to visit Phong Nha Cave, after which the National Park is named. We cycled 5km through the country and villages before jumping on a dragon boat to visit the cave. At this time of the year the water is just low enough for boats to enter although the engine had to be turned off and our guides paddle. This was so the boat could be slowly steered avoiding the cave ceiling. After yet more food we started the cycle home. It was an eventful ride with children throwing things at us and hitting us when we didn't give them money and dogs viciously chasing our bikes! Despite this, the 2 days spent at the Farmstay were our favourite in Vietnam and we highly recommend it.
